Progress Report 40

For me, Easter has always heralded the start of the running season. This is largely because of the weather but also because until recently I had a fairly time-consuming job and hence any garden railway modelling had to fit into whatever daylight hours were available to me - which of course are fewer during the winter months. Although I am now semi-retired, a combination of family, household and work-related events have conspired to prevent me from spending as much time on the railway as I would have liked over the winter period and through the Easter vacation. However, there have been some developments on which I can report.

Into Print!

Following an editorial plea from, Tag Gorton, the former editor of Garden Rail for articles on 45mm gauge garden railways, I produced s story outlining the development of my railway. This was published in the March edition of the magazine.

The title for the article, Timetabled to Peckforton, was devised by the editor who enjoys wordplay (Timetabled to Perfection?). I provided the editor with far more pictures of the railway than would be needed and am very pleased with the selection which was made.

 This was the second article I have had published in GR, the first appearing in April 2011. This focused on the construction of the swing bridge, based on the original bridge over the River Blyth at Southwold.

I have posted an explanation of the construction techniques on this blog and also created a short Youtube video showing how I used uPVC trim and superglue to create the model.

I have another article on timetabling  and freight handling which is presently being considered by GR for publication and am considering writing further articles.

The Railmotor

It has taken quite a while but I have very nearly completed the construction of the railmotor and trailer. Unlike my other locos, which are track-powered, this is battery powered and controlled with a wireless keyfob controller. (See Youtube video) This was bought over the internet and was designed to fade 12v LED lighting systems. Whilst control using the unit is not high fidelity, for the price (around £15ukp), I am very pleased with the outcome.

Clearly, the models are not quite finished; they require a paint-job and I need to improve the internal lighting system. But the models look quite effective pottering around on the railway and provide me with something I can run at a moment's notice without the hassle of arduous track cleaning.

The Garden

One of the non railway developments which has been occupying my time over the past few months has indirectly affected the railway. We have had a garage built on what was formerly the front garden and as a consequence the back garden has now been extended.  Whereas previously, Beeston Market station was constructed adjacent to the fence dividing the front and back gardens.........

 

......... this fence has now been removed. Furthermore, clearance of undergrowth bordering the front garden and the erection of a new fence has led to some additional space being created in the back garden beyond the end of Beeston Market station.

I am in the process of considering how this increase in real estate might impinge upon the railway. Do I re-site the terminus, do I re-site the copper mine or do I build an additional branch to the canal basin which runs alongside the mythical location of Beeston Market station?

Guide to UK Narrow Gauge Railways

Something I have been researching over the winter months has been UK narrow gauge railways. I intend to visit as many of these as possible over the coming years and document the results of my travels on a blog - Narrow Gauge Railways UK.

Although I have already visited many narrow gauge railways over the years, I have never properly recorded these expeditions. This new blog will enable me to become more systematic in logging the outcomes of my visits.

So far, all my energies have been expended in researching the locations, opening hours and some of the background to the various railways around the country. Although I have restricted my attention to narrow gauge and miniature railways which have a gauge of one foot or greater, there are still around 180 operating railways which fit these parameters. This does not include the sites of narrow gauge railways which have closed (eg the Southwold and the Leek & Manifold).

Running repairs

Inevitably, as with full scale railways, ongoing maintenance and construction often dominates the winter period. You will see from the previous progress report (see Progress Report 39) that I had identified a list of repairs and construction projects.

Cattle wagons
The four cattle wagons owned by the railway were excessively heavy for my poor little 0-4-0 track-powered locos. Although my plasticard scratchbuilt cattle wagons were originally quite lightweight, the addition of Schleich cattle greatly increased the weight meaning that the locos struggled to pull the wagons up the inclines when they were included in freight trains. Either the cattle would have to be removed or I'd have to slim them down in some way. I decided on the latter, hollowing out the cattle from the underside with a powered drill.

The two IP Engineering wagons were also overweight form my railway. To reduce their weight, the steel roofs have been replaced with preformed plasticard (from GRS).


Fowler diesel
Close scrutiny of the video showing freight movements on the railway shows that the layshaft on the scratchbuilt Fowler diesel had become out of synch (see 6m 52sec into video). This is because the fly-cranks were superglued to the layshaft and after a while worked loose. The was remedied by re-quartering the cranks and then supergluing them back in place. If the problem persists, a more reliable method of fixing the cranks in place will have to be found. (See How I constructed a Fowler diesel)

Hunslet loco
After adding the power buffer to the Hunslet loco, the body was glued back together but was never quite as secure as when it was first constructed. A spectacular derailment on the elevated section of the line led to further unplanned dismantlement. The loco has now been reassembled but does require some remedial painting to tidy it up. This will be done prior to weathering the loco - another job on the list. (See How I constructed a Hunslet loco from a GRS kit)

Rolling stock

Some off-season purchasing has plugged a couple of gaps in the good stock.

Crane wagon
I've been considering constructing a crane wagon for use on the railway - to handle heavy loads on the railway and act as a breakdown and maintenance wagon by the permanent way department. A chance visit to a certain online auction website resulted in the purchase of a ToyTrain crane wagon. Whilst not, to my knowledge, based on a UK prototype I've decided to use it until something more realistic can be constructed. I'm presently undecided as to whether it is resprayed in PLR livery or whether to leave it in pristine condition to enhance its resale potential.

Closed van
Through contacts on the G Scale Central forum, I purchased an LGB closed van which had been sprayed oxide. I'm undecided as to its future but an wondering whether it should become a private owner wagon maybe for the company bottling the local mineral waters.

Gunpowder van
During last year's operating sessions, I identified the need for a gunpowder van to transport explosives to the copper mine. I became aware of a new model of a corrugated van from Swift Sixteen Models. This was purchased from the company's stand at the Association of 16mm NGM's annual show at Peterborough.

Although this is not based on any particular prototype, I feel the model more than fits the bill for a gunpowder van.

How I lined my locos using Trimline tape

Introduction

In this posting I aim to share with you the approach I have developed for applying Trimline lining tape to locos.

This comes in 5 metre reels with a range of widths on each reel. At a cost of around 3 UKP a reel it represents good value for money. One reel is sufficient for one small G scale loco, though I've found it's handy to have another reel to spare. The loco shown in this posting is the line's No. 3, a Hunslet constructed from a Garden Railway Specialist's kit and an LGB Toytrain 0-4-0 chassis (see How I constructed a Hunslet loco from a GRS kit).

Painting 

From some of my other blog postings you'll see that painting locos and stock is my least favourite activity. I struggle to get that perfect finish which I'd like to achieve. I am improving my techniques for spray painting but I've still not entirely cracked it. I use aerosol spray cans. I don't feel I would sufficient use from a compressor and spray gun to justify its cost - I assume I'd have to buy an expensive one to get a decent finish. Anyway, what I have learned about aerosol spray painting so far is:

• Only spray when the weather is dry and the room is warm
• Heat up the cans in a bucket of warm water before using them
• Use high quality masking tape designed for models
• Try to spray evenly in long easy passes rather than in short bursts
• Handle the sprayed models with disposal latex or vinyl gloves to avoid greasy finger marks
• Remove the masking tape as soon as the paint is touch dry
• Wait a couple of days for the paint to harden off before applying the tape

 Lining

Once the paint had hardened off, I then decided where to start the lining. I now tend to do it by eye, but with the first loco, I measured 4mm in from the edges and put a pin mark at each end to try and keep the spacing regular. I usually start with the longest, straightest lines as these tend to be the easiest to apply. On this Hunslet model the longest run was along the base of the saddle tank.

I cut off a piece of the lining tape, allowing a couple of centimetres at each end. Although this is wasteful of tape, I find it useful to have this excess for handling the tape.

The tape was then lifted off the backing sheet with the point of a craft knife or scalpel.

The ends of the tape were then held between finger and thumb of both hands and positioned, stretching it slightly to keep the tape taut and straight.

The tape was then manoeuvred on to the model and once applied, smoothed down with the tip of one finger. If (well, when) the tape ended up in the wrong place or slightly curved, it was lifted and reapplied.

When two adjacent tapes crossed over each other,

the scalpel blade was carefully positioned lightly over each tape

and the excess piece of tape pulled up against it. In this way the tape was trimmed off precisely without cutting into the underlying paint.

The remainder of the straight lining was completed before tackling the curved lining. This took a little longer. Rather than laying down the whole length of tape, one end was pressed down with a finger-tip and the tape curved round and pressed down in short steps. This often took two or three attempts before the right curve was made.

As with the straight lining, the excess was trimmed off at the most appropriate angle against the adjoining piece.

On one loco (the Barclay) I used wider tape and found the tape buckled on some of the tighter curves. The rucks were nicked with the point of the knife and pressed down with the rounded end of knife handle. This was not entirely satisfactory so, in future, I will stick with the narrowest tape.

Once all the lining had been applied and firmly pressed down using the back of a finger nail or the rounded end of the scalpel handle, I touched up the spectacle plates, sandboxes and chimney with 'brass' enamel paint.

Nameplates

I then applied the nameplates and number plates. From experience I have discovered that the most reliable way of gluing nameplates on is to position them,

then move them to one side, apply a one or two small drops of superglue to the place where the plate will be fixed,

then place the plate on the glue.

This helps ensure the glue stays out of sight behind the plate.

Here's what happened when I did not use this approach:

The glue seeped out from behind the plate and all attempts to remove it made the problem worse - another lesson learned from experience!

Varnishing

The loco was then masked, in preparation for the application of varnish.

Waterslide transfers were applied to the buffer beams.

As with the paint, I used an aerosol of varnish which was warmed up first in a bucket of water.

Two light coats of acrylic varnish were applied, and left to dry, before the masking tape was removed and the loco left for a couple of days for the varnish to harden off.

WARNING! Always test the compatibility of the varnish with the underlying paint before applying. Here's what happened when I didn't. The paint was Humbrol enamel and the varnish was acrylic car spray:

The handrails were then fixed in place (with Superglue), spectacle plates were glazed and a driver positioned in the cab.

Loco number three was now ready to join the line's expanding roster (apart from re-fitting the couplings!).

Progress Report 33

As you can see from Progress Report 32 and from more recent posts, I have been fairly busy over the summer adding the finishing touches to various projects which had been started through the year. I like to keep more than one project on the go at any one time. Often, something I'm constructing needs to be left for a few days while the glue or paint sets, so having something else to get on with is useful. Also, when working full time, I've have had to seize moments to do a bit more modelling whenever time permits, often (as at this moment) I'll do some modelling (or blogging) while watching TV in the evening. Having a range of projects on the go means I can choose a job which is most appropriate for doing in the living room. For some reason noisy jobs (eg sawing) or smelly jobs (eg gluing or painting) don't seem to be too popular with the other half when she's trying to watch the telly. Anyway, the projects I am currently working on are:

• Chipping, repainting and detailing the Barclay loco;
• Finishing off the Hunslet loco kit;
• Weathering some LGB tippler wagons.

Chipping, repainting and detailing the Barclay loco
As can be seen from Progress Report 26, the Barclay loco was in hand painted brown livery when it was bought secondhand. It therefore needed to be repainted in Brunswick green and lined in gold to bring it into line with the loco liveries for the Peckforton Railway. After rubbing down the loco I decided it wouldn't be necessary to apply undercoat. What I hadn't realised was that the solvent used in Humbrol acrylic aerosol paint acted as an effective paint stripper for the paint used originally on the loco. This meant I had to do some extensive additional rubbing down, priming and undercoating before applying three coats of Brunswick Green, rubbing down between each coat to try and achieve a half decent finish. The finish is not exactly perfect, but it is not bad considering what it was like before.

The black was repainted by hand with (water-based) acrylics. The next job is to apply gold lining with Trimline adhesive tape.

A Massoth L chip has been wired in and the loco has been programmed to DCC No. 2. Nameplates (BEESTON) and number plates have been ordered from Alan Briggs and will be added once the paintwork and lining has been finished and sealed with clear varnish.

Finishing off the Hunslet loco kit
  

The bodywork has been constructed (See How I constructed a Hunslet from a GRS kit) and it is now at the painting stage. I find painting the most daunting part of the kit-building process and, for me, it is the most time consuming. The Peckett was around 18 months in the paint shop as I kept trying to improve upon previous mistakes. One of the difficulties I've yet to overcome is spray-drift. When painting one side of a model or round the curve of the boiler or chimney, excess spray drifts on to previously sprayed areas and dulls them down. If I find a solution, I will be delighted (and will share this with the world at large!)

Weathering some tippler wagons

With two trains of eight tippler wagons (actually I have nineteen tipplers, but have decided that eight wagons per train plus guards' van is more manaegeable for the passing loops on the line). I have slowly been accumulating these through eBay until I've now reached the optimum number. I've always planned to weather these mainstays of the line as they have very heavy useage. So far, I've managed to weather one set (see How I weathered some LGB tippler wagons) using Scenic Rust.

Couplings
I've also permanently coupled them in rakes of four wagons. As these trains are unlikely ever to be split and shunted separately it seemed wasteful of couplings to have them loose coupled. It also released loads of LGB couplings to act as spares for other stock. I decided not to permanently couple all eight together. If one wagon falls off the line on the elevated section, it would take the other seven with it - as I found from experience and, of course, sods' law prevailed - it was in the hidden section which is the least accessible. I'm wondering how long I will contine to be able to squirm into the undergrowth on my stomach commando-style.

At this stage I have decided to stick with LGB couplings as standard on the line. Although they are not realistic, they are reliable. I have several R1 points and a few curves equivalent to R1 on the line and so need something which will cope. I've decided also to add hooks to both ends of all stock. Despite my best efforts there are some dips in the trackwork (particularly at the end of the swing bridge) which means that the hooks can drop out of the adjacent loop. In addition, I have a reversing loop which could result in some stock becoming reversed, ending up with two hookless bars being presented for coupling.The release of the couplings from the tipplers has enabled me to have sufficient spare hooks for any future additions to the rolling stock.

Progress Report 31

Here comes Summer!

My leave started on Friday, giving me most of the Summer to catch up with unfinished jobs and to make a start on a lengthening to-do list.

Out with the Old and in with the New

Firstly, I've had a clear-out of a few items of rolling stock which are now no longer appropriate for the line's assumed origins. Out went two 2-plank wagons and a flat truck (the wheelbases were too long); the Shortie loco which I'd bought with a view to using the 2-4-0 chassis (the driving wheels were too large); a 32mm gauge closed van which I'd hoped to re-gauge (I've now sufficient closed vans converted from LGB Toy Train wagons); a US baggage car which I'd intended to anglicise; three scratchbuilt open wagons which I'd intended to tidy-up; and four redundant point motors. This netted me about £100 more than I was expecting and so I've been able to buy the decoders needed for the remaining unchipped locos and, with some cash which my colleagues raised for my retirement (which starts in September), I have been able to buy the latest version of the 0-4-0 Hunslet kit from GRS (Garden Railway Specialists ).

 At present, all I have done is remove it from the box and read the instructions. It has joined the list of unfinished projects but, as with all developments on the railway, I will keep you posted once construction starts.

A trip to the Narrow Gauge Railway Show in Telford this weekend also provided me with a small herd of cows from Schleich:

which will spend their remaining days travelling up and down the line in cattle wagons (see How I made two cattle wagons). I also bought a few more metal wheels. I am gradually (as funds allow) replacing all the plastic wheels on rolling stock with metal wheels. Not only does this provide more low-slung weight, it is supposed to keep the track cleaner for longer. At present I am buying solid disk wheels from Bachmann which are reasonably priced at £12.00 for four axles,

I am soon going to have to start buying spoked wheels and will have to find another source as Bachmann do not seem to make them. I have considered using LGB spoked metal wheels but at £15.50 for a pair of axles, these seem over-priced. The options seem therefore to be Tenmille wheels (AG193A) @ £10.00 for two axles or GRS wheels (SLG630) @ £8.35 a pair of axles (or £10.45 for stainless steel).

Inspiration
At Telford, I was also taken by some books on Narrow Gauge Railways on one of the book stalls. A couple of general books on the narrow gauge railways of Britain 

 plus one on the Leek and Manifold 

 found their way into my carrier bag. I was tempted by at least another half a dozen titles but funds did not permit further extravagance.

I cannot resist railway books, particularly those with plenty of pictures of the original prototypes. I find these inspirational when it comes to detailing the railway. For example, how many coaches should a narrow gauge railway have? The Welshpool and Llanfair had only three for its entire lifespan, while the Southwold Railway had six. It seems the Corris boasted eight passenger carriages while the Lynton and Barnstaple had 17 and the Leek and Manifold had four. I've decided that eventually, as with the Southwold, the Peckforton Railway will eventually accumulate six coaches - which will enable me to run two three-coach passenger trains for the extra traffic anticipated on market day (see below).

Creating atmosphere

Ultimately, when the bigger jobs are completed I will create a few tableaux scenes around the railway with figures and general railway-related clutter. My plan is to model some figures myself in Sculpey oven-hardening clay. My first efforts suggest this is a lot more difficult than it looks.

 I'd like the figures to be wearing clothes appropriate for the period (early 1930s) but am really struggling to find a source of images which show what ordinary country people would have worn. Eventually, the timetable will represent a day's operating on a summer's market day - to provide an excuse for running extra trains and also a reason for a few more passengers being in evidence than would normally be expected on a rural light railway at a time when all were feeling the financial bite of the depression.

Operating sessions
I've run a few tail-chasing trains around the system to entertain various visitors but the weather and time has not really provided an opportunity for a proper timetabled running session. Also, I'd like to finish constructing the coach kits - which is taking a little longer than I expected (see How I constructed three Maddison coach kits).

Stainz - minor modification

I had been finding the slow-running of the Stainz loco (from the original starter set) to be disappointing - often stalling when passing over the plastic frogs of pointwork. I realised that the traction tyre on one of the driving wheels was adversely affecting the current pick-up from the rails. After trying in vain to find non traction-tyred replacements I read on the G Scale Mad discussion-board (now replaced by G Scale Central) that others had solved the problem simply by removing the traction tyre. I was concerned that the groove in the formerly tyred driving wheel would actually exacerbate the problem but the removal of the rubber tyre seems to have actually improved it considerably. Although the Stainz does stall occasionally, it is by no means as regularly as previously.

Lining the Peckett kit

I have also had a go at adding some lining to the Peckett loco which I constructed from a GRS kit (see How I made the Peckett loco). Following advice from others on the G Scale Central forum, I opted for Trimline self adhesive tape.

 At only £2.99 for more than sufficient tape for a G scale loco and the ability to re-fix the tape it's just right for someone lacking skill and patience. I was sceptical at first that it would be able to follow the curves of the cab doorway, but with trial and a considerable amount of error I have managed something which is passable. The photo has revealed more errors that I had noticed so I don't yet feel sufficiently confident to share my experiences in more detail - but once I feel more satisfied with my efforts I will post a blog entry providing more detail on what I've learned.

I've since finished the lining, added a little more detail and painted the chassis - see Progress Report 32