Monday, January 01, 2018

Introduction to the blog

Introduction


This blog describes ongoing progress in the development of a G gauge Garden Railway from its inception to the present day.

NEW - Loco No.1 gets sound

When I became interested in building my own garden railway I spent a considerable amount of time (and money) on books, videos, DVDs and scouring the internet for information, ideas and inspiration. When I eventually started construction I used some of the ideas I had discovered, but also experimented with my own approaches. This blog outlines how I have gone about constructing my own garden railway. My aim is to provide the sort of information I was looking for when I was getting started and also to share what I've learned (or 'borrowed' from others). I've tried to include a few 'How I ........' postings interspersed with occasional 'Progress Reports'. I do not profess to be any kind of expert - what I offer here is an opportunity for you to metaphorically look over my shoulder to see how I have gone (and am going) about this fascinating hobby.

As this is a blog, the various posts are presented in reverse chronological order (ie the most recent first). To see a categorised list of contents go to the Blog Contents Page.


If you are thinking about building your own garden railway then why not join the 16mm Association or the G Scale Society - you'll get plenty more advice and opportunities to visit other peoples' garden railways
. Alternatively, browse through the G Scale Central website - there's plenty more guidance here and an opportunity to sound out the views of others through the G Scale Central discussion forum.


The Blog


The advantages of blogging are that it is immediate and uncomplicated when creating and uploading information. The other, of course, is that with Blogger it is free. The major disadvantage is that I have minimal control over how the postings are presented. The blogging system adds the most recent information to the start of the blog, hence the postings appear in reverse chronological order (most recent first, oldest last). Whilst there is a list of postings on the right hand side, it's not particularly easy to see what is there. This introduction is an attempt to provide you with a contents list of the postings organised into categories so, hopefully, you see if what you are looking for is presented in this blog. To ensure that it always appears at the start of the blog, I update its content and set its presentation date into the future each time I add a new posting.

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Saturday, July 15, 2017

How I revamped part of the stream

Since 2012 (see Progress Report 41), I have been planning to add a watermill beside the stream on the approach to Peckforton Station. It's no coincidence that my two favourite narrow gauge railways (the Southwold and the Welshpool & Llanfair) followed rivers and both passed watermills. I have already created a siding to serve the mill (see also How I constructed the mill siding) and bridged the stream to connect it to the main line (see How I constructed a small wooden trestle).

Getting around to constructing the mill is one of those jobs I have been putting off as I felt the stream needed to be modified to include some sort of mill stream and this would require some major civil engineering work. However, during the Spring a couple of years ago, I was fascinated to watch a mouse gathering nesting material and disappearing under the trackbed beside the stream.

Despite my interest in wildlife, I was not keen on having such fauna nesting so close to my back door and so took some deterrent measures to discourage it. Then recently, I discovered another mousehole beside the track close to the original and, at the same time, found that the stream seemed to be losing water.
 I put two and two together and figured the mice must have chewed into the plastic liner underneath the stream over which concrete had been laid (see How I constructed the stream).

My only recourse, I felt, was to break up the concrete to expose the liner and replace it. This would also entail redoing the trackbed which runs alongside the stream.

The track was taken up by removing the screws which held it to the concrete 'breeze' block trackbed (see How I laid my track) .......


...... and the ivy was removed from the retaining wall.

The concrete blocks were dug up (you can see the plastic liner on the edge of the stream on the left).

Meanwhile, one of my resident blackbirds decided to monitor proceedings and help himself to a few grubs and worms which had been exposed by my excavations.

The concrete and rocks lining the stream were then attacked with a hammer and crowbar ........

 ...... to expose the plastic liner beneath (the mill siding is in the background).

After clearing the debris, I inspected the lining. Lo and behold, there was no damage in evidence!! To double check, I ran the pump to see if any leaks became more apparent - but none appeared!

It seemed all my efforts were in vain - the leak must be elsewhere!

It was at this point, that it occurred to me that the culprit might actually be the cover for the sump. The sump is a plastic dustbin with it's lid inverted, perforated and placed on top to act as a permeable cover (see How I constructed the stream).

Of course, if the holes in the cover were blocked with leaves and soil, then the water would not be able to drain back into the sump.

I removed the lid and cleaned out the sump (much to the consternation of the frogs which populate the area) and ran the stream again. Rather than needing to be topped-up after fifteen minutes as was happening previously, the stream now ran happily for two hours and even then needed only half a bucket-full to top it back up to the original level.

I try to be sanguine about such issues and so looked for the silver lining to the outcome of my labours. I had an ideal opportunity to remodel this part of the stream and provide the mill stream, I decided.

The blocks for the trackbed were re-installed (making sure they were well bedded-in); my blackbird returning to supervise proceedings.

Once all the blocks had been re-installed and levelled ......

 ...... concrete was forced into the spaces between them (I use rubber-gloved fingers for this job - much easier to get the concrete where it's needed and extremely satisfying).
 

Various chunks of sandstone were then positioned along the edges the stream, with a few in the stream bed on top of the liner, and cement forced in and around them (the concrete on the stream bed is about two inches deep). This was left to set.

The following day, a wire brush was used to remove 'green' concrete from the faces of some of the rocks and the concrete was then left for three further days to ensure it had fully set .

The track was re-instated - being fixed to the concrete blocks with Rawlplugs and screws.

The pump for the stream was then energised to check the newly installed weir and mill stream behaved as they should.

The mill-stream can be seen on the right in the middle distance. This will be built-up eventually with stonework and a set of sluice-gates will be added to restrict the flow to the wheel. I would like to simulate the ponderous turning of a real life waterwheel if that is achievable.

Looking from the opposite direction, the mill building will be installed on the plateau on the left, below the mill siding.

To check everything was functioning as it should, the cover was re-instated over the sump and the pebbles were given a thorough clean before being placed on top.

I was pleased to find that there was still minimal loss of water from the stream and so, while the civil engineering had been unnecessary to stem the leak, the modifications were now in place for the installation of the mill building (see How I constructed a water mill - pending).

Once the weather improved, the track was ballasted using my tried and tested cement and PVA method (see How I ballast my track) .......



...... and then tested.


I am pleased with the outcome. The trackbed beside the stream was in need of refurbishment as it had dropped slightly (possibly due to the rodents' excavations) and I had wanted to remodel the stream to accommodate the water mill. In addition, the ivy (which was self-propagated) had become somewhat overwhelming on this stretch and needed to be 'tamed'. And so, several objectives had been achieved - and the source of water-leakage had been explained and remedied.

It's very reassuring to know that, even after ten years of use, my technique for stream construction still holds water, so to speak -

The next job is to make the mill building and to experiment with making the sluice gates to control the flow of water to the wheel. I now have plenty of excuses to indulge in a bit more water- and concrete-play which is, of course, very important for my intellectual development.

I have already started researching the design of the mills which abounded on the River Gowy in the immediate area and realised their design had much in common ....






Monday, June 19, 2017

How I made a coaling stage

Since I first started running trains on my railway around ten years ago, my locos have primarily been steam outline. I am ashamed to say that, in all that time, the entire railway has been without a means of coaling and watering locomotives. That has now changed. Beeston Market Station, where the railway's engine shed and workshops are located now boasts a water tower and coaling facilities.

When the engine shed was moved from one end of the station to the other (see Progress Report 59), I added a siding alongside the shed roads primarily for a loco coal wagon. I decided that the space between this siding and the shed roads could accommodate a narrow coaling stage.

As with most of my projects, I started off by drawing a rough sketch of what I wanted, showing the most significant dimensions. I made allowances for the heights of the loco running plates and a typical open wagon, together with a calculation of the width which would be available between the siding and the road leading to the engine shed (more of that later!)

The six 70mm long uprights were then cut from 7.9mm square section Plastruct tubing.

The three cross-pieces and four longitudinal beams were then cut from the same tubing (34mm and 156mm respectively).

All pieces were then roughly scribed with a blade of a razor saw to simulate wood grain.

 The verticals were then marked at their midway points to show where the horizontal beams should be glued.

Some pieces of 1mm thick plasticard were cut out, roughly 10mm square ......

.... and glued to the one end of the uprights using styrene solvent adhesive.

Once the adhesive had set, the excess pieces of styrene were trimmed off ......

..... to provide end-caps for the verticals.

The side beams were then glued to the verticals at their mid-points .....

The transverse beams were then glued to one side and the other side then glued on.

Diagonals (56mm long on one side and 40mm long on the other) were cut from the 7.9mm Plastruct square tubing and scored with a razor saw to simulate wood grain.

These diagonals were then glued between the uprights and the longitudinal beams.

10mm wide strips of 1.5mm thick plasticard were cut .......

..... and scored with a razor-saw blade for planking.

The edges were then bevelled slightly by dragging a craft knife along them.

 Planks were then cut to around 53mm lengths, their ends were made jagged with a triangular needle file before being glued across the beams for the flooring.

Similarly, planks roughly 100mm in length were glued across the verticals.


Three more diagonals were then cut out and scored .......

.... to fit across the base.

The structure was now almost complete. I felt the longer planks needed some additional bracing and so .....

.... a couple of 32mm long pieces of 2.5mm square Plastruct rod were glued at the midway points.

The whole thing was then given two coats of red oxide primer using a Halford's rattle can aerosol.

Once dry, the structure was painted with dark brown acrylics, the grain being emphasised by dry-brushing over with a couple of lighter shades of brown.

Some off-cuts of polystyrene were then shaped and glued into the corners of the staging.

These were painted with black acrylics .......

...... before being coated in PVA adhesive and sprinkled with crushed coal.

Once everything had dried, the stage was test-fitted beside the engine shed at Beeston Market. It was at this point, I decided to try it with all my locos and discovered that some have much wider running plates than the one I had based my measurements on and so, unless I was prepared to move the tracks, the coaling stage wouldn't fit!! I had broken the first rule of any DIY project work - measure twice and cut once!!!

However, I realised that the crew on the PLR would have applied a belt and braces approach to coaling their locos. An open wagon, parked on the siding, could serve as a perfectly adequate coaling stage, without the need for the coal to be shovelled twice, provided a suitable plank was placed between the wagon and the loco.

I have decided to modify the coaling-stage so that it is one-sided, and use it at Bickerton Station - the other terminus on the railway. So all is not lost.

They say experience teaches you lessons in life ...... we never stop learning, do we?