How I lined my locos using Trimline tape

Introduction

In this posting I aim to share with you the approach I have developed for applying Trimline lining tape to locos.

This comes in 5 metre reels with a range of widths on each reel. At a cost of around 3 UKP a reel it represents good value for money. One reel is sufficient for one small G scale loco, though I've found it's handy to have another reel to spare. The loco shown in this posting is the line's No. 3, a Hunslet constructed from a Garden Railway Specialist's kit and an LGB Toytrain 0-4-0 chassis (see How I constructed a Hunslet loco from a GRS kit).

Painting 

From some of my other blog postings you'll see that painting locos and stock is my least favourite activity. I struggle to get that perfect finish which I'd like to achieve. I am improving my techniques for spray painting but I've still not entirely cracked it. I use aerosol spray cans. I don't feel I would sufficient use from a compressor and spray gun to justify its cost - I assume I'd have to buy an expensive one to get a decent finish. Anyway, what I have learned about aerosol spray painting so far is:

• Only spray when the weather is dry and the room is warm
• Heat up the cans in a bucket of warm water before using them
• Use high quality masking tape designed for models
• Try to spray evenly in long easy passes rather than in short bursts
• Handle the sprayed models with disposal latex or vinyl gloves to avoid greasy finger marks
• Remove the masking tape as soon as the paint is touch dry
• Wait a couple of days for the paint to harden off before applying the tape

 Lining

Once the paint had hardened off, I then decided where to start the lining. I now tend to do it by eye, but with the first loco, I measured 4mm in from the edges and put a pin mark at each end to try and keep the spacing regular. I usually start with the longest, straightest lines as these tend to be the easiest to apply. On this Hunslet model the longest run was along the base of the saddle tank.

I cut off a piece of the lining tape, allowing a couple of centimetres at each end. Although this is wasteful of tape, I find it useful to have this excess for handling the tape.

The tape was then lifted off the backing sheet with the point of a craft knife or scalpel.

The ends of the tape were then held between finger and thumb of both hands and positioned, stretching it slightly to keep the tape taut and straight.

The tape was then manoeuvred on to the model and once applied, smoothed down with the tip of one finger. If (well, when) the tape ended up in the wrong place or slightly curved, it was lifted and reapplied.

When two adjacent tapes crossed over each other,

the scalpel blade was carefully positioned lightly over each tape

and the excess piece of tape pulled up against it. In this way the tape was trimmed off precisely without cutting into the underlying paint.

The remainder of the straight lining was completed before tackling the curved lining. This took a little longer. Rather than laying down the whole length of tape, one end was pressed down with a finger-tip and the tape curved round and pressed down in short steps. This often took two or three attempts before the right curve was made.

As with the straight lining, the excess was trimmed off at the most appropriate angle against the adjoining piece.

On one loco (the Barclay) I used wider tape and found the tape buckled on some of the tighter curves. The rucks were nicked with the point of the knife and pressed down with the rounded end of knife handle. This was not entirely satisfactory so, in future, I will stick with the narrowest tape.

Once all the lining had been applied and firmly pressed down using the back of a finger nail or the rounded end of the scalpel handle, I touched up the spectacle plates, sandboxes and chimney with 'brass' enamel paint.

Nameplates

I then applied the nameplates and number plates. From experience I have discovered that the most reliable way of gluing nameplates on is to position them,

then move them to one side, apply a one or two small drops of superglue to the place where the plate will be fixed,

then place the plate on the glue.

This helps ensure the glue stays out of sight behind the plate.

Here's what happened when I did not use this approach:

The glue seeped out from behind the plate and all attempts to remove it made the problem worse - another lesson learned from experience!

Varnishing

The loco was then masked, in preparation for the application of varnish.

Waterslide transfers were applied to the buffer beams.

As with the paint, I used an aerosol of varnish which was warmed up first in a bucket of water.

Two light coats of acrylic varnish were applied, and left to dry, before the masking tape was removed and the loco left for a couple of days for the varnish to harden off.

WARNING! Always test the compatibility of the varnish with the underlying paint before applying. Here's what happened when I didn't. The paint was Humbrol enamel and the varnish was acrylic car spray:

The handrails were then fixed in place (with Superglue), spectacle plates were glazed and a driver positioned in the cab.

Loco number three was now ready to join the line's expanding roster (apart from re-fitting the couplings!).

Progress Report 31

Here comes Summer!

My leave started on Friday, giving me most of the Summer to catch up with unfinished jobs and to make a start on a lengthening to-do list.

Out with the Old and in with the New

Firstly, I've had a clear-out of a few items of rolling stock which are now no longer appropriate for the line's assumed origins. Out went two 2-plank wagons and a flat truck (the wheelbases were too long); the Shortie loco which I'd bought with a view to using the 2-4-0 chassis (the driving wheels were too large); a 32mm gauge closed van which I'd hoped to re-gauge (I've now sufficient closed vans converted from LGB Toy Train wagons); a US baggage car which I'd intended to anglicise; three scratchbuilt open wagons which I'd intended to tidy-up; and four redundant point motors. This netted me about £100 more than I was expecting and so I've been able to buy the decoders needed for the remaining unchipped locos and, with some cash which my colleagues raised for my retirement (which starts in September), I have been able to buy the latest version of the 0-4-0 Hunslet kit from GRS (Garden Railway Specialists ).

 At present, all I have done is remove it from the box and read the instructions. It has joined the list of unfinished projects but, as with all developments on the railway, I will keep you posted once construction starts.

A trip to the Narrow Gauge Railway Show in Telford this weekend also provided me with a small herd of cows from Schleich:

which will spend their remaining days travelling up and down the line in cattle wagons (see How I made two cattle wagons). I also bought a few more metal wheels. I am gradually (as funds allow) replacing all the plastic wheels on rolling stock with metal wheels. Not only does this provide more low-slung weight, it is supposed to keep the track cleaner for longer. At present I am buying solid disk wheels from Bachmann which are reasonably priced at £12.00 for four axles,

I am soon going to have to start buying spoked wheels and will have to find another source as Bachmann do not seem to make them. I have considered using LGB spoked metal wheels but at £15.50 for a pair of axles, these seem over-priced. The options seem therefore to be Tenmille wheels (AG193A) @ £10.00 for two axles or GRS wheels (SLG630) @ £8.35 a pair of axles (or £10.45 for stainless steel).

Inspiration
At Telford, I was also taken by some books on Narrow Gauge Railways on one of the book stalls. A couple of general books on the narrow gauge railways of Britain 

 plus one on the Leek and Manifold 

 found their way into my carrier bag. I was tempted by at least another half a dozen titles but funds did not permit further extravagance.

I cannot resist railway books, particularly those with plenty of pictures of the original prototypes. I find these inspirational when it comes to detailing the railway. For example, how many coaches should a narrow gauge railway have? The Welshpool and Llanfair had only three for its entire lifespan, while the Southwold Railway had six. It seems the Corris boasted eight passenger carriages while the Lynton and Barnstaple had 17 and the Leek and Manifold had four. I've decided that eventually, as with the Southwold, the Peckforton Railway will eventually accumulate six coaches - which will enable me to run two three-coach passenger trains for the extra traffic anticipated on market day (see below).

Creating atmosphere

Ultimately, when the bigger jobs are completed I will create a few tableaux scenes around the railway with figures and general railway-related clutter. My plan is to model some figures myself in Sculpey oven-hardening clay. My first efforts suggest this is a lot more difficult than it looks.

 I'd like the figures to be wearing clothes appropriate for the period (early 1930s) but am really struggling to find a source of images which show what ordinary country people would have worn. Eventually, the timetable will represent a day's operating on a summer's market day - to provide an excuse for running extra trains and also a reason for a few more passengers being in evidence than would normally be expected on a rural light railway at a time when all were feeling the financial bite of the depression.

Operating sessions
I've run a few tail-chasing trains around the system to entertain various visitors but the weather and time has not really provided an opportunity for a proper timetabled running session. Also, I'd like to finish constructing the coach kits - which is taking a little longer than I expected (see How I constructed three Maddison coach kits).

Stainz - minor modification

I had been finding the slow-running of the Stainz loco (from the original starter set) to be disappointing - often stalling when passing over the plastic frogs of pointwork. I realised that the traction tyre on one of the driving wheels was adversely affecting the current pick-up from the rails. After trying in vain to find non traction-tyred replacements I read on the G Scale Mad discussion-board (now replaced by G Scale Central) that others had solved the problem simply by removing the traction tyre. I was concerned that the groove in the formerly tyred driving wheel would actually exacerbate the problem but the removal of the rubber tyre seems to have actually improved it considerably. Although the Stainz does stall occasionally, it is by no means as regularly as previously.

Lining the Peckett kit

I have also had a go at adding some lining to the Peckett loco which I constructed from a GRS kit (see How I made the Peckett loco). Following advice from others on the G Scale Central forum, I opted for Trimline self adhesive tape.

 At only £2.99 for more than sufficient tape for a G scale loco and the ability to re-fix the tape it's just right for someone lacking skill and patience. I was sceptical at first that it would be able to follow the curves of the cab doorway, but with trial and a considerable amount of error I have managed something which is passable. The photo has revealed more errors that I had noticed so I don't yet feel sufficiently confident to share my experiences in more detail - but once I feel more satisfied with my efforts I will post a blog entry providing more detail on what I've learned.

I've since finished the lining, added a little more detail and painted the chassis - see Progress Report 32