How I constructed a brick based water tower with foamboard

Having completed a boiler house (see How I constructed the boiler house) for the sawmill (see How I constructed the sawmill) at Peckforton, I realised that I would need to make a water tower to keep the boiler in the boiler house topped up. Having discovered the delights of PVC foamboard (eg see How I constructed the water mill), I decided that this would be the ideal material with which to make the water tower.

 The base

The first job was to mark out the four walls for the base of the tower.

 The basic dimensions for the base were - 120mm (long) x 65mm (wide) x 165mm (high).

I then marked out the positions of the windows and doorway, based on the dimensions of those supplied by Jackson's Miniatures.

The brickwork was then marked out on the walls. I felt that Flemish Bond would be appropriate for the water tower as it needed to be of robust construction. Firstly, the horizontal courses were marked, at 4mm intervals. The verticals were also measured at 4mm intervals, based on the assumption that the stretcher of each brick would be 12mm in length. This enabled me to then mark out the vertical course. I prefer to mark them out first rather than going straight into scribing as it's easier to erase a pencil mark than correct a wrongly scribed brick course.

As can be seen, the brick arches above the window opening were also marked out as were the vertical courses of bricks below the windows.

 Scribing and embossing

The horizontal courses were scribed first, .......

.... and then the vertical courses. A 4mm wide flat bladed screwdriver was used for this. One corner of the blade was positioned in the horizontal course ........

.... and then the screwdriver turned so it was vertical, applying downward pressure at the same time to make an indent in the board.

 The tank

As a relief from the tedium of embossing the bricks, I turned my attention to the tank. two pieces of 110mm x 65mm foamboard and two pieces of 45mm x 65mm foamboard were cut for the sides and ends of the tank. The sides were then bisected and diagonals drawn across each half.

A double layer of 1mm plasticard was then cut to a width of 4mm and the strips glued to the tops and sides.

 5mm wide rings were cut from the barrel of a plastic pen. These happened to be 11mm in diameter, as that was to hand at the time.

 The rings were then glued to the centre of the diagonals and 4mm strips glued outward to each corner. This process was repeated on both sides and on the ends.

..... until the tank was completed.

A 130mm x 75mm piece of foamboard was cut for the base of the tank and then the component pieces were then assembled 'dry' to check they all fitted together OK. Note: an aperture for the Jackson's Miniatures door was cut into one of the ends.

 Assembly

Before final assembly, Cambrian Models nut and bolt heads were glued inside the vertical bracing of the tank.

..... and then the model was assembled using thick superglue. The ends were butted to the sides, using thick superglue to join them.

The mortar courses were then scribed to ensure they continued to the ends of the walls.

Once the base had been completed, the tank was glued on top.

The completed tower was then positioned on the railway, to check that there was sufficient clearance for the stock.

..... and to see if it looked right aesthetically.

Painting

A cream coloured mix of watery acrylic paint was daubed over the walls and then wiped off with a paper towel to leave a deposit in the mortar courses.

When the mortar colour had dried, a browny-red mix of acrylic paint was dry-brushed diagonally over the walls to represent the bricks.

NOTE: Dry brushing involves getting a minimal amount of paint on a fairly wide brush, wiping off any excess and then wiping the brush gently over the model to allow the paint only to adhere to the raised areas.

Inevitably, some the brick-colour found its way into the mortar courses in some places.

To remedy this, some of the mortar colour was daubed over the offending area (once the brick colour had thoroughly dried) ......

.... and then wiped off.

The tank was given a coat of red oxide primer and the slab on which it rests, painted grey/green concrete colour.

The door and windows were painted green .......

..... and then it was set aside to dry off.

To finish off the model, a filler pipe was made from scraps - plasticard, plastic tube, a wooden bead, brass rod, some Cambrian bolt heads, a length of chain and a piece of black heatshrink tube.

The ground where the tower will sit between the tracks at Peckforton Station was excavated marginally to provide a level foundation,  ......

...... and then it was tested with one of my locos (ex Southwold Sharp Stewart loco No. 5 Tarporley),  to check it looked the part.

Conclusion

I am intending to add some interior detailing in the form of pipework as the windows make the interior fairly prominent.

I am quite pleased with how this model has turned-out. The ability to create realistic brickwork is a definite boon - and a lot less expensive than buying embossed plastic sheets. The thickness of the foamboard also makes the buildings fairly substantial and realistic. I do not leave my buildings out throughout the year, but I am confident that this material would stand the rigours of the UK climate quite well.