I have two points (turnouts) on the far side of the baseboard at Beeston Market Station which I can just about reach by stretching across the tracks.
However, if there are wagons on the cattle dock siding and/or a train on the main station loop, then the point levers can be difficult to reach.
(I'd just trimmed the hedge when I took this photo!) I wanted to replace the brake cables on my bike and so decided to order more than I needed. After sorting out my bike, I had sufficient cable left over for the two points.
I measured how much I needed ......
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..... and then took the sleeve into the workshop where I used a slitting disk in a mini-drill to cut through it.
I had read on the web that a slitting disk is the best way to cut through cable without fraying it and so cut the cable in the same way, adding around 60mm over the length of the sleeve. I was surprised at how easily the disk sliced through the cable, having experienced all kinds of problems in the past with trying to hack though it with snips or a hacksaw.
Ferrules were slipped over the ends of the sleeve .....
...... and then the cable was then slid into the sleeve.
The end of the cable was tinned with solder ........
.... and a piece of 1.5mm brass rod soldered on to it, .......
.... before the rod was trimmed so about 30mm was left attached.
The brake cable was then threaded up through the hole.......
...... and the end of the brass rod bent up into the slot in the tie bar.
The brake cables were then fixed to the underside of the baseboard with 5mm cable clips, .....
..... leaving around 10-20mm protruding at the edge of the baseboard.
The points can now be operated easily from the edge of the board, without stretching, even if the cattle dock is full and the loop roads occupied.
They have been in situ now for a month and seem to be operating without a problem, though I have dribbled oil down into the end of the cable at the points end to discourage moisture from running into them. I anticipate that oiling will be a regular task
4 comments:
Rik,
that's very nice work. If I may, I'd like to make two suggestions:
First, your cable ends would profit from being shielded against the weather. Especially the point end which faces upwards is susceptible to moisture and precipitation. But the operating end would profit from hiding beneath the baseboard, as well.
Second, while you're at it, you could install some point hand levers at the rim of the baseboard. They would give a stronger indication of the point's direction, add operational security and definitely add some flair to your railway.
As always, your posts are informative, fun to read and lend inspiration for my own endeavours. Keep it going and keep safe!
Best regards,
Frédéric
Thanks Frédéric
I did wonder about protecting the upturned ends. I did wonder if it's worthwhile getting expanding rubber boots to cover the ends - like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111259788456
Rik
Rik,
such boots are a good idea, but there are two things to keep in mind:
Rubber suffers from UV radiation, so you'll need to protect the boots from direct sunlight with some sort of housing.
Your brake cables are made from stranded wire, which will suck in moisture by capillary action. So your boots will have to be glued/attached to the sleeves and some solid counterpart; that would be the brass rods and the cable lugs.
I have used similar boots on an R/C submarine to seal the servo linkage. The boot was glued to the plastic pressure body on one end and to the linkage rods on the other end. That worked very well and kept the water out, so it should work for your railway as well.
Frédéric
Thanks Frédéric
I'll try using silicone sealant on the joints between boot and cable
Rik
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