How I created a sort-of Ruston diesel loco

 Having acquired a Houston Gate Locomotive Works (HGLW) Deluxe chassis kit, I hunted around for a loco which might be suitable for it. I quite like the Ruston locos and so searched the internet for an example on which I could base my build.

I was unable to find a three-foot gauge version, so decided to take the generic design and modify it slightly to fit the HGLW chassis.

Source: https://slatersplastikard.com/linePage.php?code=32L01

Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/34938158@N02/albums/72157631038668260/with/22356322545

Source: https://www.exmoor-associates.co.uk/2021/07/the-loco-now-leaving-lynton-station/

Source: https://sodormodelrailroading.blogspot.com/2014/06/blueprints-rusty-16mm-scale_16.html

Using these as inspiration, I started work.

 

Constructing the chassis

The HGLW chassis kit includes everything needed, including some basic electrics.

The instructions (downloadable from the HGLW website) are detailed and easy to follow, and so I worked my way progressively through them. However, before applying any glue, I did a dry-run to familiarise myself with the parts and their relative locations.

The first step was to attach the motor supports to the cross-member. Rather than the recommended PVA, I used Ever Build High Viscosity Superglue, obtained from the Tool Station. I'm impatient and so prefer the almost instantaneous fix provided by superglue with an activator spray.

The brake gear was then glued-on.

Next, one of the side frames was glued to the running plate, .....

..... followed by the cross-member and its attachments and the second side frame.

The ends were then glue on.

With the main frame now completed, attention was turned to the running gear. Two washers and a top-hat bearing were placed on the ends of the axles.

The parts for the axle boxes were then removed from the fret .....

..... and the second section of the axle box, glued to the first.

The spring hangers were then glued-on, ......

..... followed by the axle-box cover.

The same process was followed for the other three axle boxes.

At this stage, I decided to add half-round nail-art gems to the axle boxes to represent rivet heads. Nail-Art gems can be bought by the thousand from eBay and come in a range of sizes. For the spring hangers, I used 1mm diameter half-round gems.

For the axle boxes, I used 2mm half-round gems. To fix them in place, I used a cocktail stick to apply a small blog of HV superglue to the intended location for the rivet-heads - shown by the circles burnt into the parts.

The gems were then picked-up on the end of the cocktail stick, using the residue of glue left on the stick. The gem was then positioned; the larger blob of glue being sufficient to detach the gem from the stick. The gem could then be nudged into place with the end of the stick.

The process was repeated until all the rivet heads were glued on, ......

.... and all the axle boxes finished in the same way.

The O-ring was then threaded loosely on the axles ......

.... and the bearings on the end of the axles made ready for the axle boxes.

The axle boxes were then glued in place, taking care not to spread any glue inside the bearings.

Once all the axle boxes were glued. .....

..... the O-ring was slipped over the pulleys.

The wooden rings were slipped over the motor ....

.... and then the motor was slotted into place. Two screws and washers were screwed into place to hold it firmly in position.

Before the screws were tightened, the worm was meshed with the worm-wheel, ensuring there was a fine gap between them about the thickness of a sheet of tissue paper (it used to be fag-paper!)

The loco body

The parts for the loco body were printed-out.

I started by gluing the cab into place. This is because I made tabs on the base of the front and rear of the cab which can be slotted into holes in the running plate.

The rear of the cab was glued first (using Ever Build High Viscosity Superglue)

This was followed by the left side of the cab, ......

.... and then the right side.

Last of all, came the front of the cab.

Next, came the base of the fuel tank, .......

..... followed by the tank itself.

The end of the main bonnet was attached to the bonnet. I printed the majority of the bonnet in one piece using my resin printer, as I was disappointed by the quality of finish my FDM printer produced on this part :BTW - I have now also provided separate parts for the sides, top and ends of the bonnet so they can be printed individually, if you have only an FDM printer and have similar problems getting a decent finish.

The bonnet assembly was then glued into place.

The arched cover to the bonnet was then attached.

The main part of the radiator was glued on next, ......

..... followed by the two side sections.

Finally, the radiator water tank was glued in place on top of the radiator.

The transmission cowl and driver's seat were then added to the inside of the cab and the cab roof temporarily put in place.

Some filing and sanding was then done to tidy-up the appearance of the loco.

and a 3D printed driver (from DesignScanPrint3D) was squeezed into the cab.

It was now ready to enter the paint-shop. However, when it emerged, it just didn't look right - the Ruston body perched precariously on top of the HGLW chassis. I have nothing against the HGLW chassis - it's a great product, but it just didn't look right with the Ruston. So, I had a rethink.

After a fair amount of thinking, 3D drawing, tinkering, tweaking, re-designing and experimentation, I came up with my own design of chassis. It uses a 12v GA25-370 gearmotor (170RPM) and brass bevel gears all obtainable via AliExpress. The wheels are from Bachmann 24.5mm metal wheelsets mounted on 3mm steel axles. (for more information see How I designed and built my own 3D printed powered chassis - pending)

The body and chassis now looked, to my mind, far more compatible.

A further trip to the paintshop and the loco emerged in my default Halford's rattle-can Rover Brooklands Green livery (now ,annoyingly, no longer available!!).

 Equipped with a Micron MR603 receiver, three 14500 (AA sized) li-ion cells and a cheap recordable (AliExpress) soundcard on which I uploaded the sound of a Ruston diesel, the loco has now entered service and can sometimes be seen pottering around the copper mine, sawmill or sand quarry sidings or occasionally out one the open road.

 

  (see 1:15 into video)

Although it is not an accurate scale representation of Ruston (it's too wide - in an attempt to make it fit the HGLW chassis), I feel it does evoke the spirit of these remarkably successful little locos. Now I have gained the confidence to design and make my own viable powered chassis, one day I might get around to making a more accurate scale model of a three foot re-gauged version.